You should check out these troubleshooting ideas if you encounter Volvo 850 error code 232 on your computer. On the 850 and S / V / C70, the most common cause of EFI-232 codes is usually a vacuum leak in one or more rubber manifolds in the system. Engine vacuum lines (rubber elbows) have illustrated vacuum line repairs.
I have a code 232 engine check lamp / Long term fuel mixture too lean near idle. I also noticed blue smoke in traffic jams. The morning, when it’s cool outside, is only needed before it gets hot outside. No oil or coolant loss, the turbo is definitely working and just made / removed new plugs, air ear filters, throttle and checked manifold. I just bought a car, I drive fast and hard, but soon checking the oil level today will seem too high. I plan to change the oil tomorrow. Any advice would help me!
I am guessing that the problem was caused by faulty O2 sensor (s) or faulty injectors. Regarding the oil combustion issue, was this PCV system the last one to get attention? On the 850s, the PCV system uses an oil filter, and the system is generally smarter if it can be replaced as a kit, I would say after about 60,000 miles / 6 years or so (for some it may be acoustically overkill). In addition, Dyson’s plastic / rubber cords are known to be insufficient to visually inspect vehicles.
Decisive increase in level – If the overall coolant level has not changed, check if you smell fuel compared to oil. If the travel seal is good, a fantastic hour A partially blocked injector can start and allow diesel fuel to drip into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running. If you choose to inspect both injectors, you may need to replace most of the seal / o-ring after removing one injector.
For a cheap and fickle solution, I would put in a large cylinder of Techron natural gas system and try a cleaner one with 10W-30 synthetic oil. If nothing works in this regard, you may want to consider checking the cylinder compression or removing each spark plug for a range of faults (you will still need to remove the spark plugs for a compression test. Data).
Wait for other members to join you to learn about other possible solutions. In discussion 850, brand new experts have appeared.
Surprisingly thanks for the answer. That’s all I was looking for, a few things that I think you might not be interested in. I amI’m used to working on my Mustang 87, but this unique piece is a completely new animal!
I have eight hundred and fifty T5 1996 with 110,400 miles in the station wagon. I am having trouble diagnosing malfunction 232 (check if the engine light is on) and am confident that overall I am not getting the right boost levels at the right time.
I have a good understanding of all the discussion boards available over the last few weeks and I also can’t seem to find the latest solution to these issues, which may or may not be related. I just think now is the time to ask for help:
Problem 1 – The check engine light comes on immediately after reset, about half an hour after it is generated, and my only recorded flash code is actually 232. At idle it is a bit unstableflax, but the car is working fine (naturally aspirated). Tracking
I got some really good advice on the forums and brought the following with me:
* PVC system including vent / vacuum pipe under the manifold and therefore a replaced manifold gasket.
* Replaced rubber lever on vacuum lines (fuel register, cruise control start)
* Check the air duct for leaks with a copious carburetor spray to clean the intake manifold as well as the injector O-rings.
* replaces maf
* replaced some kind of oxygen sensor (old control and slow switching)
* Excellent service including the timing belt performed
* Inlet closed next to Maf and throttle body, some pressure applied to check the tightness of the turbocharger (no)
* Vacuum testing of the cable connections of the vacuum hoses, including the brake booster hose
Problem 6 – WOT acceleration usually looks about a quarter way from the market to get gaps in the first and tiny passes. The third seems to be slow until the thought hits 4500 RPM at about 65 mph, when the lift hook goes up 3/4 natural white and the bikes take off. In 3rd gear, which assists 4th gear, there is a point at which the needle rises. The car has been practicing this method since I am serious about it – since I cannot safely accelerate this way, I decided to put up with it. Incidentally, this disease appeared 24 hours a day. I read that it should get full 3/4 thrust in white at 3000rpm – I’m glad I’m afraid that’s nowhere else.
For this problem I have:
* The ends of both turbo pipes are additionally blocked, some pressure applied – there is no leakage outside the outlet of the intercooler, which made me think the problem was caused by me!
* I tested the turbo on some cars – the shaft is absolutely free of play and rotates freely.
* Check these connections to and from the control solenoid valve for leaks.
* Compressor bypass valve is vacuum tested
** At the moment of childhood weakness, andYes, I understand how dangerous it is, I removed the wastegate actuator hose from which the boost control solenoid valve emanates. The turbo gave a full 2.5-3000 rpm boost (I was careful and never used boost when throttle was on) which was sticking to the red line. The car has been pre-redesigned, equipped, and brought up to the level of acceleration I dreamed of before buying a car.
* Removing and blocking the compressor bypass valve from vacuum (be careful when testing to not close the throttle fully), but a quarter of the mode reaches the goal, only now that there is no more power increase at 4500 rpm. All
Can’t I remember what I missed? I think it caused emotional tension in issue 1 and Cbv with BCS for issue 2, but motivationally it dried up quickly!Speed up your computer today with this quick and easy download.
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